Surf Station Photography Journals

The crowd filled in and the sun's heat intensified as we braced for the possibility of another long flat summer. This year's dog days were the exception, with several systems sending solid swell and even a few surprises (Ernesto being one.) We reveled in stoke, yet there was another factor that played a role in refining the shape of the waves...

May began with a pulse but faded quickly. After the expedition was launched and the discovery of the north side of the Dredge was made, Ponce and Leon waxed up and took note of a French reconnaissance drone in the sky after discovering the new point. By dawn a new colony of Hugenuts began to settle on the beach as the swell began to fade. Eventually the Hugenuts along with Ponce and Leon retreated for the next few weeks intently observing the forecast. More logs were ordered by both colonies in preparation for June, MMXXIV. 

Let us reflect. Last week in St. Aug there were broken boards, a few bruised egos and rumor has it (in a frothy state of commitment) someone even kissed the pipe. That’s gotta hurt! As the dozers crept outward and the sand began to shift, a mini backdoor took shape on the north side of the ol’ rusty pipeline. In all the noise there were moments of hollow bliss. Just ask Silas Milller and Spidey (R.K.) who paddled over to what seemed like an endless conveyor belt of drainers graced with light offshores. Where will the new sand shift next? Stay tuned and waxed. 

A fun week it was. With the right tide on the right sandbar, there were waves. And just when I thought it was gone there was another pulse. While all eyes were on the not so secret spot just north of the pilings, there were special guests rolling into town. As Friday night’s festivities at the Surf Station and beyond gave way to morning, everyone from Cam Richards to Karina Petroni hit the water in true fashion for the Single Fin Hoedown. Style, flow and good times were had. 

Sometimes there’s grace in chaos. That’s how the end of week marathon session began. As the wind shifted hard offshore and the current drifted steadily north, steep drops gave way to smaller inside sections with occasional shore pound. A few drift sessions paid off for the frothiest. Eventually as the wind beat it down Thursday night, morning gave way to a much smaller but cleaner wave. For early risers like Frank O’Rourke, seeking out the right spot offered some workable leftovers for the taking. 

Decent waves continued through the week. Some days better than others but even the waist high days had enough juice to get something out of it. As water temps continued to climb, parking lots filled up faster and the old familiar questions from passing strangers returned tenfold… “Is the water cold?” “Have you ever been to Hawaii?” And as the swell fades, this year’s transition into spring has arrived true to form: In like a lion, out like a lamb. Until the next session, enjoy the memories! 

From the SE/ESE the swell filled in with anticipation. The weather had other plans though as minute to minute, hour to hour, the occasional cold drizzle paved way for strong enough wind to whip up what felt like a mini sandstorm. As tourists chased their belongings down St Augustine Beach, heads were bobbing and drifting northward, waiting to slip into a memorable drainer. For the unlucky, boards were broken. For those who made a few drift sessions happen, the occasional wave was worth the wait and even the sun peeked out from time to time.

There’s something kinetic on the sand. A shared energy in and out of the water that is almost palpable. Neoprene-clad, ebony specks dot the skyline and the shore, the air buzzes with excitement as surfers regale one another with stories of their best waves of the day. After seemingly endless 1 foot buoy readings, the ocean awoke and the winds began to cooperate Saturday morning. 

As the wind clocked hard west and the sun began to lower the curtain, things lined up but not without a challenge. The current was sucking out while those who scratched a little harder made the most of it. Mother nature rarely dishes out rewards without a twist but on the afternoon of 3.6 it was worth the added effort.

There it was. A healthy yet short-lived visit from the east north east. The morning air was brisk and the water temp still in the mid 50s. As I walked down the steps onto the sand to check the usual spots, I looked south down the beach. There stood Josh Luteran stoically eyeing up a sandbar. It hadn’t been too long since the last swell but it felt like a small eternity nonetheless. The next couple of days brought a variety of winds and not always in a favorable direction. Patience was key as there were a few windows of opportunity to be had. And when the time was right, it was on.

As the sun set on Thursday the anticipation grew. The view faded to black and I began to imagine what it’s like to poke my head out of a shell not yet breaching the sandy surface. As the earth completed its rotation, the sun once again cast its rays across the Atlantic where we stood like hatchlings waiting to make our way through the sea foam scattered along the beach. This little beach crawler however had other plans and instead grabbed a camera for a few photos. Cheers to Friday Sessions 2.9.24